{"id":18849,"date":"2015-01-31T01:10:15","date_gmt":"2015-01-31T00:10:15","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.moda.es\/blog\/?p=18849"},"modified":"2020-04-27T17:07:46","modified_gmt":"2020-04-27T16:07:46","slug":"dolce-gabbana-vuleven-a-deslumbrar-con-su-alta-moda","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/www.moda.es\/blog\/dolce-gabbana-vuleven-a-deslumbrar-con-su-alta-moda\/","title":{"rendered":"Dolce & Gabbana vuleven a deslumbrar con su Alta Moda"},"content":{"rendered":"

La c\u00e9lebre Scala de Mil\u00e1n<\/strong> ha sido testigo de toda clase de \u00f3peras y espect\u00e1culos l\u00edricos e incluso en el siglo XIX funcion\u00f3 como casino, pero nunca hab\u00eda guardado la Alta Costura<\/strong> entre sus muros.<\/p>\n

\"dgam6\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Pero Domenico Dolce y Stefano Gabbana se reunieron con el director general de la instituci\u00f3n para consultar si pod\u00edan reproducir los carteles de la Scala en sus trajes<\/strong> y de paso pidieron alg\u00fan permiso m\u00e1s…<\/p>\n

La colecci\u00f3n se dividi\u00f3 en dos partes. La primera inspirada en ballets como Giselle, La Sylphide y El Lago de los<\/em> Cisnes<\/em><\/strong> con rom\u00e1nticos<\/span> vestidos de noche<\/span> con faldas<\/span> <\/strong>de bailarina <\/strong><\/span>de<\/span> <\/strong>tul de seda<\/strong> hasta al suelo<\/span>, talles alto<\/span>, pantalones<\/span> skinny<\/span>, chaquetas cortas<\/span> con joyas incrustadas<\/span> y<\/span> magn\u00edficos<\/span> vestidos de baile <\/span>de tul<\/span> decorados<\/span> con <\/span>carteles de teatro<\/span> recreadas en<\/span> seda bordada<\/span>.<\/p>\n

\"dgam\"<\/a><\/p>\n

La segunda parte se compuso de las piezas de sastrer\u00eda sencillas pero ultra elegantes<\/strong> que la gente viste para asistir a la \u00f3pera. Trajes de chaqueta con capa con estampado animal, pantalones ajustados, vestidos de fina lana en negro o carmes\u00ed y chaquetas combinadas con amplias faldas.<\/p>\n

\"dgam5\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Los asistentes fueron obsequiados con un libro de fotograf\u00edas en el que se pod\u00eda admirar el glamour y la opulencia de las primeras \u00e9pocas de la Scala. Grace Kelly,<\/span><\/strong> Maria<\/span> Callas<\/span> y varios<\/span> arist\u00f3cratas<\/span> italianos <\/span>hac\u00edan del vestir un arte.\u00a0<\/span>\u00ab<\/span>Si yo fuera el director<\/span> de un<\/span> teatro de la \u00f3pera<\/span> de clase mundial<\/span>, crear\u00eda un c\u00f3digo de vestimenta<\/strong><\/span>\u00ab<\/strong>, dijo Gabbana<\/span>. \u00ab<\/span>La forma de vestir<\/span> para ir<\/span> a la \u00f3pera<\/span> y el ballet<\/span> ahora<\/span> …<\/span>\u00a1Van en deportivas<\/span>! \u00bfD\u00f3nde est\u00e1 el<\/span> respeto por el arte<\/span>?\u00bb<\/p>\n

\"dgam2\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Cada una de las piezas mostradas es \u00fanica y se dice que las clientas (120 como \u00fanica audiencia junto a 40 afortunados periodistas), comenzaban a hacer sus encargos antes insluco de que terminara el desfile.<\/p>\n

\"dgam7\"<\/a><\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

\u00a9Telegraph<\/p>\n

La Scala, Milan\u2019s world-famous, lavishly pillared, neo-classical, opera house has seen a few key events in its time. The original theatre burned down at the end of the 18th century. Its replacement was heavily bombed during the Second World War. In between, it witnessed the flounces, triumphs and tears of Toscanini, Verdi, Puccini, Nureyev, Callas and also doubled up for much of the 19th century as a casino. Until today however, it had never seen a fashion show.<\/p>\n

Perhaps no one had ever dared ask to stage one there. Stefano Gabbana and Domenico Dolce only enquired after they had been summoned to a board meeting presided over by Alexander Pereira, La Scala\u2019s general manager, to discuss whether or not they would be granted permission to reproduce La Scala\u2019s posters on their dresses. Permission granted, they felt sufficiently encouraged to raise the subject of their next Alta Moda (Italy\u2019s equivalent of haute couture) fashion show and its location.<\/p>\n

\u201cWe couldn\u2019t believe it when Alexander Pereira said yes,\u201d Stefano Gabbana recalls. \u201cWe ran out of that meeting with straight faces. Then we opened some champagne.\u201d<\/p>\n

These days, in addition to creating stupendous collections, the world\u2019s most prestigious fashion houses have the added challenge of finding ever more memorable locations to show them. Last December, Chanel hosted a fashion show in the lake-side Salzburg mansion that served as the Von Trapp family\u2019s house in the film of The Sound of Music, while Dior commandeered a sumo-wrestling sports arena in Tokyo.<\/p>\n

Dolce & Gabbana have themselves previously staged Alta Moda at a former monastery in Sicily, a Venetian Palazzo and a rocky promontory in Capri. For the clients who attend these shows \u2013 the world\u2019s richest 0.0001 per cent – the location is as much a part of the experience as the slight tremor that surely even some of them must feel when they tot up the finally tally for all those hand embroidered ball gowns. In purely aesthetic terms, they can comfort themselves: Alta Moda is beautiful and also timeless.<\/p>\n

This collection was divided in two parts. The first, inspired directly by the great repertoire of classical ballets from Giselle and La Sylphide to Swan Lake, featured swoonily romantic, tutu-esque evening dresses, with ballerina-length skirts in silk tulle; high-waisted, principal-boy skinny trousers, jewel-encrusted short jackets \u2013 and the magnificent floor length tulle ball gowns that were decorated with those theatrical posters \u2013 recreated in embroidered silk.<\/p>\n

The second part was devoted to the kind of devastatingly simple but elegant tailoring that audiences once wore to the opera and ballet. Slender fitted wool dresses in crimson or black; single breasted jackets with narrow or full skirts and the standout: a leopard-print cape skirt suit. All were worn with high heeled Mary Janes, some with embroidered or jewelled tights.<\/p>\n

Did audiences ever look quite that glamorous? It seems they did. The scrap books presented to each guest had photographs of Grace Kelly, Maria Callas and various Italian aristocrats at La Scala\u2019s First Nights, in the days when women could devote hours to their toilette and when going to great lengths over one\u2019s appearance wasn\u2019t seen to be trying too hard. It was also a time when women knew how to dress up without toppling into parody.<\/p>\n

Alta Moda\u2019s audiences \u2013 in this case around 120 clients and 40 journalists \u2013 do not need much prompting when it comes to dressing up. Most arrived attired, as per the invitation\u2019s instructions, mainly in black and white cocktail wear. \u201cIf I were director of a world class opera house, I would instill a dress code,\u201d said Gabbana. \u201cThe way people dress to go to the opera and ballet now\u2026\u201d he trailed off, but his expression said it all. \u2018They\u2019re in trainers! Where is the respect for art?\u2019<\/p>\n

The art in this Alta Moda show was the responsibility of Roberto Bolle, La Scala and The English Royal Ballet\u2019s charismatic 40-year-old guest star (and principal dancer with the American Ballet Theatre) who choreographed the balletic interludes featuring dances from La Scala\u2019s school. Bolle also selected the crowd pleasing music from Carmen, The Nutcracker and Eine Kleine Nachtmusik and lent his impressive body to an Alta Moda embellished red cloak and, later, a torso hugging, jewelled jacket that had been especially made for him by Dolce & Gabbana\u2019s atelier.<\/p>\n

Ballet proved an ideal source of ideas for Dolce & Gabbana\u2019s ultra-feminine, opulent aesthetic. Swept back chignons, eyeliner, tiaras and red lips are as much a part of their heritage as they are of a classically trained ballerina. I haven\u2019t seen an audience this enraptured by a show since \u2013 actually since the last Alta Moda. That was a sell-out, with clients texting their orders through while the show was still on, in order to ensure they reserved the dresses they want (it\u2019s first come, first served; each dress is a one-off).\u00a0 Despite the uncertain political situation in Russia, a similarly demure stampede appeared to be underway throughout this one. <\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

La c\u00e9lebre Scala de Mil\u00e1n ha sido testigo de toda clase de \u00f3peras y espect\u00e1culos l\u00edricos e incluso en el siglo XIX funcion\u00f3 como casino, pero nunca hab\u00eda guardado la Alta Costura entre sus muros. Pero Domenico Dolce y Stefano Gabbana se reunieron con el director general de la instituci\u00f3n […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":3,"featured_media":18850,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_is_tweetstorm":false,"jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true},"categories":[10,11,12],"tags":[72,273],"jetpack_publicize_connections":[],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.moda.es\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/01\/dgam6.jpg?fit=650%2C416","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"jetpack_shortlink":"https:\/\/wp.me\/p4tJCC-4U1","jetpack-related-posts":[{"id":13294,"url":"http:\/\/www.moda.es\/blog\/dolce-gabbana-alta-moda-aun-queda-alta-costura\/","url_meta":{"origin":18849,"position":0},"title":"Dolce & Gabbana Alta Moda, Alta Costura italiana","date":"julio 11, 2013","format":false,"excerpt":"La tercera colecci\u00f3n de Alta Costura de Dolce\u00a0 & Gabbana fue presentada bajo los\u00a0 ornamentos de un par de palacios venecianos del siglo XV adyacentes con vistas al Gran Canal y ante una selecta audiencia. La colecci\u00f3n, ultra femenina y cl\u00e1sica aunque totalmente contempor\u00e1nea en su construcci\u00f3n y en la\u2026","rel":"","context":"En \u00abColecciones\u00bb","img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.moda.es\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/07\/Dolce-and-Gabbana-Alta-Moda-1.jpg?fit=400%2C654&resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]},{"id":10510,"url":"http:\/\/www.moda.es\/blog\/la-alta-moda-de-dolce-gabbana\/","url_meta":{"origin":18849,"position":1},"title":"La Alta Moda de Dolce & Gabbana","date":"enero 31, 2013","format":false,"excerpt":"\u00a0 En la m\u00e1s rigurosa y rica intimidad. As\u00ed es como Dolce & Gabbana ha celebrado el desfile de su segunda colecci\u00f3n de Alta Costura, Dolce & Gabbana Alta Moda Primavera - Verano 2013. Rigurosa porque s\u00f3lo 80 personas ocupaban los asientos y rica porque aparte de los doce \u00fanicos\u2026","rel":"","context":"En \u00abColecciones\u00bb","img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.moda.es\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/01\/Dolce-and-Gabbana-Alta-Moda31.jpg?fit=500%2C750&resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]},{"id":17947,"url":"http:\/\/www.moda.es\/blog\/la-alta-costura-no-viene-solo-de-paris\/","url_meta":{"origin":18849,"position":2},"title":"La Alta Costura no viene s\u00f3lo de Par\u00eds","date":"julio 14, 2014","format":false,"excerpt":"Cuando somos peque\u00f1as nos dicen que los ni\u00f1os vienen de Par\u00eds. Cuando somos mayores es la Alta Costura la que viene de la ciudad de la Torre Eiffel, y cuando Dolce & Gabbana\u00a0 toman las riendas la Alta Costura (o la Alta Moda como ellos llaman a su colecci\u00f3n) viene\u2026","rel":"","context":"En \u00abDestacados\u00bb","img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.moda.es\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/07\/dg3.jpg?fit=650%2C650&resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]},{"id":19965,"url":"http:\/\/www.moda.es\/blog\/gucci-desfilando-en-londres\/","url_meta":{"origin":18849,"position":3},"title":"\u00bfGucci desfilando en Londres?","date":"noviembre 12, 2015","format":false,"excerpt":"Pues s\u00ed, \u00bfpor qu\u00e9 no? Si Chanel recorre medio mundo en cada edici\u00f3n de su Metiers d'Art y Dolce & Gabbana ha sacado su Alta Moda del circuito de la costura Par\u00eds, ya est\u00e1 claro que no existen fronteras en el campo de los desfiles. La \u00faltima colecci\u00f3n de Gucci\u2026","rel":"","context":"En \u00abColecciones\u00bb","img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.moda.es\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/11\/Captura-de-pantalla-2015-11-12-a-las-22.11.26.png?fit=647%2C425&resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]},{"id":14758,"url":"http:\/\/www.moda.es\/blog\/scarlett-y-matthew-para-dolce-gabbana\/","url_meta":{"origin":18849,"position":4},"title":"Scarlett y Matthew para Dolce & Gabbana","date":"noviembre 8, 2013","format":false,"excerpt":"Scarlett Johansson y Matthew McConaughey son los protagonistas del nuevo film que ha dirigido el gran Martin Scorsese para presentar la \u00faltima campa\u00f1a del perfume The One de Dolce & Gabbana. Vimos varios teaser durante las \u00faltimas semanas y la verdad es que ten\u00edamos ganas de ver el resultado final.\u2026","rel":"","context":"En \u00abBelleza\u00bb","img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.moda.es\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/11\/Dolce-and-Gabbana-11.jpg?fit=500%2C237&resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]},{"id":16190,"url":"http:\/\/www.moda.es\/blog\/la-moda-que-se-llevara-segun-milan-fashion-week\/","url_meta":{"origin":18849,"position":5},"title":"La moda que se llevar\u00e1 seg\u00fan Milan Fashion Week","date":"septiembre 24, 2013","format":false,"excerpt":"Si el otro d\u00eda te cont\u00e1bamos lo m\u00e1s rese\u00f1able de los desfiles de la Semana de la Moda de Londres, hoy que se cierra la de Mil\u00e1n con nuevas claves de estilo para la pr\u00f3xima temporada Primavera - Verano 2014. 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